Cleaning the pool floor will require the use of a Pool Vacuum system; this is usually supplied with the pool & consists of:
- Vacuum Head - Flexible Roller or Brush Type.
- Vacuum Handle - to connect to the Vacuum head usually Telescopic
- Vacuum Hose - A flexible hose with cuffs on each end to connect to the Vacuum head on one end & the Skimmer Box on the other. The Vacuum hose must be long enough to go from the Skimmer Box to the furthest pool floor point. The hose would normally be 38mm for Inground Pools & 32mm for Above Ground Pools.
- Vacuum Plate - In the skimmer box or other connection in the pool.
NOTE: Before starting to vacuum, remember the following:
- 1. Make sure the FILTER is clean before vacuuming (see backwashing)
- 2. If the floor is exceptionally dirty.(Vacuum to waste)
The Vacuum head must be connected to the handle & the hose & then placed on the bottom of the pool & the hose filled with water before connecting to the Skimmer Box.
Place the open end of the hose over the return to pool fitting & use the returning water to force the air from the hose.
Now connect the hose to the Skimmer Box Vacuum Plate.
Move the Vacuum head across the pool floor removing all loose debris.
NOTE: Avoid large leaves or twigs; use a leaf net to remove these.
It may be necessary to switch off the pump to be able to remove the Vacuum hose & or plate from the skimmer box.
NOTE: Never lift the vacuum head from the pool before disconnecting the vacuum hose from the skimmer box.
Most people don't realize that deposits of mineral & organic matter build up on the walls of pools & must be removed regularly to stop the chance of algae, bacteria or virus growing in the pool.
Clean the walls regularly with the vacuum or use a pool broom the day before you intend to vacuum the floor.
The area where the water level sits is a great one for the deposit of minerals, oils & lotions. All of these can harbor algae & bacteria & look dirty.
Clean using a specially formulated swimming pool tile cleaner.
Many people have one of two finishes on there pool which may need special attention:
- Marble sheen or Marcie finishes require that they be brushed very regularly to stop the deposit of minerals, also the pH level & Alkalinity level should not be allowed to go to high other wise the mineral deposit problem will occur. If the pH & Alkalinity levels are allowed to go to low, the water could eat the finish off the wall
- Pebble Finish Pools. These require regular brushing of the walls to eliminate the build up of debri between the pebbles. Brush Weekly
Most people forget that most algae which grows in the pool comes from the pathways & garden around the pool.
Keep greenery cut back from the pool edge & from the paths. This will reduce the growth of algae which can harbor bacteria & which causes slipperiness on the paths around the pool.
If necessary use a mix of one part chlorine (1litre)(2pints) of liquid chlorine to (10litres) (2.5 gallons) water to broom across any slippery areas, leave for 10 minutes to work & then flush off with large amounts of water. (Wear protective clothes)
The skimmer box is the unit through which water leaves the pool to go to your Pump & Filter. This contains a basket which should be checked DAILY to remove any debri. This will allow the pump & filter to work correctly.
Pump Basket Cleaning
There is normally a basket in a pot in front of the pump which should be cleaned weekly.
You will need to switch off the pump & may have to close a valve in front of & after the pump, (if the pump is below pool level) before removing the pot lid to remove & clean the basket.
Don't forget to open the valves before restarting the pump.
The filter on your pool could be one of possibly three different types:
1. Diatomaceous Earth DE
2. Sand
3. Cartridge
Each has a different method for cleaning but all must be cleaned regularly either when the pressure gauge indicates or on a time basis (weekly, monthly etc) dependent upon the environment & the amount of dirt the filter collects.
NOTE: If the filter is too small for the pool then it will need to be cleaned more often, if it is larger it cleans will be longer apart.
These filters have a set of pads inside which must be coated with the DE. The DE is the filter & it removes the dirt from the water passing through. When the dirt builds up to a point that it reduces the flow of water, the DE & its dirt must be removed.
Some filters have a valve which allows you to reverse the flow through the filter to remove the DE & dirt. This works on some but not all.
In most cases you will need to remove the lid of the filter tank & take out the pads & give them a good hose down. In many cases you can use the reverse flush method normally & then each six months or so remove the pads for a good clean.
After you replace the pads & refit the lid, you will need to start the pump & add more DE through the skimmer box.
Usually 1lb per 10SqF or 500gms per SqM
All sand filters have a reverse flow valve or Backwash valve connected to them.
Always switch off the pump before moving the valve.
Move the valve handle from the Filter to the Backwash Position with some it is a push/pull operation & some a rotate operation.
Restart the pump & let the water flow in reverse through the filter until the water in the site glass clears or about 3 minutes.
Switch off the pump & move the valve to the RINSE or FILTER TO WASTE position if the valve has one or back to the FILTER position.
If you go to the Rinse position to operate the pump for 30 seconds to clear the filter & then switch off the pump & move the valve to the FILTER position.
Switch on the pump & allow it to operate as normal.
A cartridge filter is similar to the air cleaner filter in the car, made of a convoluted material. They need to be removed from their tank & cleaned by hosing down on a regular basis.
Use a good strong hose nozzle, (your finger will get sore if you try to use it to spray the cartridge). Spray between all of the flutes.
If the cartridge is very dirty of the spray won't remove the dirt then try soaking in a cartridge cleaner solution from the pool shop.
Your pool pump will require service to two main items:
- 1. Mechanical Seal: This item is situated between the pump wet end & the electric motor & form the seal around the motor shaft to stop water coming back along the shaft.
The mechanical seal is a wearing part & will normally require replacing each 2-3 years or earlier if necessary
The seal will burn & leak if the pump is ever run dry. Always replace the seal as soon as it begins to leak.
Replacement is done by disconnecting the water & electrical connections & then removing the wet end, remove the old seal & replace with a new one, be careful not to break the ceramic face of the new seal when refitting.
- 2. Motor Bearings: These bearings are a wearing part & would normally be replaced each 4-6 years.
The bearings will start to grind or scream as they become dry or if water leaks through the mechanical seal & flushes the grease out of them.
Best to disconnect the water & electrical connections for the pump & motor & remove the wet end, then take the motor to a motor rewinder who can replace the bearings for you. It is better done where they have bearing pullers & presses.
By filter service we don't mean backwashing the filter, we mean the service of components of the filter EG: - Backwash Valve & components:
The Backwash
The Backwash valve should be dismantled each two to three years to check "O" rings & gaskets & in the case of top mounted valves, to remove grit & grime from under the handle which will eventually seize up the shaft.
The Gasket where the rotary type valves seal onto water diversion chambers should be checked for cracks or loose or torn sections which could let water bypass. Replace the gasket if necessary.
The Shaft should be removed & the "O" ring cleaned & greased with proper "O" ring grease.
The Pressure gauge is there for a reason so try to make sure it works, it will tell you when you ned to backwash the filer, correct backwashing can save a considerable amount of makeup water each year.
Fitter sand should release all of its trapped debris during a backwash but is does not normally happen this well. After a period of a couple of years with a lot of perspiration & body fats & suntan oils in the water the sand becomes sticky & will not release debris easily.
You will need to soak the sand in the filter tank in a solution of pool acid or a sand filter cleaner solution to remove the components which have attached themselves to the sand.
Also one of the biggest reasons a Sand filter clogs up prematurely is because the backwash line from the filter to the street or sewer is too small or to long. (40mm for 6M - 50mm for 6-12M 80mm over 12 M.)
The pads in a DE filter are there to hold the filter material (the DE Powder) & in theory should not get contaminated with debri, but they do. More than anything, they absorb calcium & other chemicals from the water which reduce their effectiveness. These chemicals can usually be removed with a 24 hour soak in a 10:1 water & pool acid mix.
The biggest mistake with a DE filter is to use to little powder & not cover the pads completely also letting air become trapped in the top of the filter tank stops water getting to the pads in that area to coat them with DE. - Always release the air from the tank prior to adding new DE powder.
Always check for holes in the pads especially in the stitching or on corners these will allow DE & debris right on through & back to the pool.
Cartridge filters tend to have the same problems as the other two, especially if they are not cleaned often enough, they will need a good soak on a two monthly basis in cleaning solution.
This refers to the parts which make up the internal of the filters such as the base laterals in a sand filter; these allow the water to pass through but not the sand. They can become clogged after a period of years & should be inspected & cleaned each 6-8 years when the filter sand is replaced.
The spider supports for the pads in a DE filter need to be checked for cracks & must all fit tightly to the pad connecting tubes.
The Cartridge filters normally have very little of internals but they must always fit well to stop any bypass.
The on going problem of repairing underwater lights will be with us for ever.
You must first hope that the builder has left enough cable wound up behind the lamp to allow it to be removed to the side of the pool for repair.
Most lights have a lamp capsule which unclip from the wall after undoing one or two screws & can be lifted to the deck. If you can't do this then you will have to empty the pool down to below light level.
Once you have the light clear, & have made sure the power is OFF, remove the seal retaining screws & remove the globe or lamp. You will be best to take this with you to the pool shop to identify the replacement. You will normally need to replace the gasket at the same time as the globe or lamp.
Many times the light will have a fuse at the transformer box which as blown when the water got into the light & blew the globe, check & replace if necessary
Many pools now have an automatic pool cleaner. These devices are a mechanical unit & the do wear fairly quickly. Inspect the units on a monthly basis & replace components which are showing signs of wear. Many times this will be wearing pads & suction pads & rubber feet & wheels & internal nozzles.
If the unit is slowing down or not working as good as it used to then check it out & repair it. If repairs are left to long then main body parts wear & the whole thing has to be replaced.
Salt chlorinators require regular service due to the fact that they work by passing an electric current through the pool water, however in doing so they attract particles to the negative electrode which coat it & reduce its efficiency.
When you remove the internals or electrodes from the cell, you may have to shut off valves if you pump is below pool water level.
Always try to remove the coating with a pressure hose or wipe it with a wet rag before resorting to soaking in a 1 part pool acid to 10 parts water solution for an hour. Try to only soak the actual electrodes, not the other components & terminal connections.
Wash down after with a strong hose before fitting to the system. Open valves if necessary & restart pump. If the system does not appear to be putting out a good quantity of chlorine after a clean; add some more salt to see if the output is better. If it is not the have the cell & transformer box checked by a manufacturers representative.
Salt chlorinator cell need to be replaced about each 4 years.